Looking Córdoba in Morocco (I)

I try to organize the memories of nearly a month of revisits by Sherifian Empire lands to try to put together a coherent account of influences or similarities between the two sides of the Straits to tabernarios friends and the first thing I can think of two negative comparisons to Cordoba. One in Tangier, a city where I feel so comfortable that I always have to boot to continue the journey or return. And it has to do with one of my favorite recreational hobbies that I can enjoy the true desire transgressive, sinful, in a Muslim country: the transfer of beer. The Moroccan beer is not good and the supply is very limited but Tangier is characterized by radical opposition to Cordoba, city sintapista quintessential, the most generous and practice extendidísima contapismo. In most bars Favorites, The Dean’s (mythical place where cogorceaban often Bowles, Borroughs, Tennessee Williams y compañía) and The Grand Later (vs. Post), addition burdensome Meson Ocaña you order a beer (always bottle: 1’5€) and a joy to put you tapaza: paella, tajine de pollo, sardines, jureles, etc., that does more for the concord of the nations and peoples of muEndo the Alliance of Civilizations Zapatero mache. And before you've finished the beer and you have trampled with another cover, which obviously will ask a new foamy. And so until you put foot on the wall and get out unscathed premises as possible. Then you can go to eat conventionally or not, depends on you being able gluttony, but I assure you it is not necessary.


The second I came at the southern end and has to do with equine turds and negative again in Cordoba. In an entry last mandatory contrasted controlled by a dodotis the horses dung gigs worldwide except in the cultural capital of the dung, Cordova. Well to Marrakech and has enforced his coachman with such hygienic standard that prevents scattering of stinky turds on public roads. And everything is because Noche Cordovan hueles the boñigas / leaving the streets / the cutreaurigas. The cutreaurigas with more balls in the whole world, along with his compadres vendors tourist bullshit Jewry, to any municipal authority has been able to bring to heel. Why be?


Twice I remembered my friend The Hill, our luxury hydrologist. The first was in Fez, specifically in the Bab Bou Jeloud, the most beautiful and famous of the medina. A chance put me on the track of the existence of the ruins of the medieval system (almorávide time, siglo XI) sharing water sources throughout the city. That is what we know here as a alcubilla. Just had a photo and text in a book I bought and talked about it putting it by the door. After asking several ciudadanos getting the thing to work out great, since no one could give me reason nor their location or accessibility. Al final, into a little hotel located just behind the door, the concierge confirmed to me his existence and exact location (behind a door with lock) where it stood. I said that was abandoned and from the terrace of the hotel you could see until recently but the construction of an annex eventually stop. But he led me to the exact location closed by a padlock, informing me that the key was getting almost impossible. So I had to make do with take a look garbled through the door gasket of wood just beside a small police barracks (pictured with a flag) from which ruins littered with garbage and jaramagos is appreciated.


The other occasion was in Marrakech and the famous Qubba Almoravid and in relation to the existing alcubilla on the north wall of the Mosque (current use in Catholic Cathedral). Also I have read something Ossuary door commenting that there was next to the Puerta de Almodóvar. So, have a practical test of the origin of the word alcubilla, coming directly from al-qubba = Dome, domed building. I would not know I determine the path followed by the etymology, but it seems that those buildings that housed the mechanisms for the distribution of water for public and private sources should be systematically cupulate. At least, the oldest preserved in the Arab world, for aught I know, it was. As is the Cordoba of the seventeenth century the north wall of the mosque. Although in all honesty MARRAKECHI small domed building is only for a probable ablutions hall of the mosque nearby, therefore unknown how would the rest of the complex roof.

The Qubba is the only building built by the Almoravids, founders of the city that remains standing. The main, the great mosque was destroyed by his successors almohades with the excuse that he was misguided. Filthy lie because it ruins are preserved as consecutively as opposed to the qibla wall of the current, work with the Almohad minaret, of Kutubbiyya.


Apart from this issue of water, Córdoba relationship with this building lies in the dome of the mihrab copy directly from the Cordoba mosque. Anyone who wants to learn about the qubba can do HERE and HERE. I took the entire complex thoroughly, the darkest cistern and the remains of complicated passages vats and tile without understanding much. But certainly gave insight into the complexity of the dynamic splitter. And especially impressed by the situation, several meters below the current street level.

Curiously kubba I will point that became the model for the Recent mausoleum in disneymoruno style that is built on the simple tomb that holds the remains of Almutamid, the king of Seville Cordoba was also, in the town of Agmat, about 30 Kmts de Marrakech, where he died in exile. Blas Infante, in years 20 he visited, what has become a pilgrimage site of the Andalusian nationalism. I, in return, I never did. This time it next time.

But my sense of wonder almost burst when I found another unusual influence of our distant capital city in the Moroccan desert. An annex to the resort have installed a small exhibition of pictures which narrate the evolution of the restoration of the qubba. So from a gallery of images ranging from the early twentieth century to today, makers have clashed with explanatory text panel, whose author is undoubtedly an infiltrate of the Cordovan cabinet council in the municipal tourist boards Marrakech. If NO, is not explained in the text, when referring to the Mosque of the call is Kotubbiyya Mosque. We will have to wait a few years when the touch switch panel to see if it follows the natural evolution and end up calling Catedral de Marrakech, Oldest mosque in the Kutubiyya.


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  1. I have not been able to find the right or link to the archive of the ABC last Sunday in which Nieto Fulfilled, Do you ERRE ERRE, continued his thesis clearly anti-Islamic Mosque to collation of an interview on the XXV Anniversary of the declaration of the monument as a World Heritage Site. Since I have two days left for the exam now I can not comment any further. But thanks for your article, Manuel, that has helped me to ease the tension between the study of the billet of Financial and next: the Personnel Management. What will be the most horrible of the two? (And yet I have more).

    • In the digital archive of ABC are not included numbers the past fortnight.
      Maybe that's why you could not locate the item sought

  2. Tasty tasty, and knowing that it is the first part.
    And few things!. The horse cars is disgraceful. I feel ashamed and I'm not Cordovan coachman. And then I hear around here say that the “Moors” son guarros. We already applies to all.
    That dome deserves a post all to herself. Do you have more pictures of the same? It is very surprising because in all that transpires symmetry, however it seems to be offset from the shaft of the tower, I guess that contains.
    Dosifícate friend, because of this post Salen for at least three wonderful. Also so you can better target the face of indexing. ¿Looks at you?
    It's just a suggestion, and they are also very well.

  3. Manuel, a question:
    Given that Fez is where many will die andalusies, Averroes or Abenpace including, Have you been able to find any remaining traces in this regard? Are these figures relevant Allie? Is there no traces? Have you seen anything?

  4. These days I'm a little fast and no time for anything. Some of the participants are ANIMACOR friends coming to Córdoba once a year and I will not miss the intensive cultivation of friendship these days. Yesterday I escaped the gigs an hour and a half to attend the lecture he gave Gonzalez Ferrin Medicine Al Andalus. In both would like to comment, especially on the theories of the latter, deep and very accurate review of Olagüe. And now I'm going to the doctor. Nothing serious, thanks, but tomorrow complete. Let's see if I slowed. Quickly you commented that you ask me, publican, about the graves of Cordoba.

    The only ones that might exist in Dar al Islam are those of Averroes and Maimonides (though some think the latter born near Velez Malaga), the latter in Cairo, where he died, but was dismantled and moved the body to Tiberias (hoy Israel) shortly afterwards where it is kept.

    As Averroes died in Marrakech and was buried there, his remains were later moved to Córdoba. Ibn Arabi that attended the transfer and to balance the weight of the body on the donkey that brought them were placed in the opposite serón books philosopher.

    Apart from some holy men who were born in Al Andalus, mainly in Seville, and are worshiped in different parts of the Maghreb, the only tomb of an Andalusian is possible to visit the remains of Almutamid in Agmat a few kilometers from Marrakech, where he died in exile King Seville, it was also of Córdoba. Blas Infante pilgrimage to it and has since become one of the sacred places of andalucismo. The ancient tomb was extremely simple, but some years ago they decided to enhance it (do not know if Spanish pulp) constructing a building above disneymoruno style directly inspired by the Almoravid Marrakesh kubba. As I have just discovered that escapes me this detail, notice that they will have to expand this entry with that data. Although I never visited.

    As Avempace, although there are reports that his tomb was known in the thirteenth century in Fez, subsequently lost his trail.

    • Gonzalez Ferrin loved his revisionist General History of Al-Andalus, published by Almuzara! Pity to miss lectures and. Is he still pending charging for the rights of his work?

  5. As the conference was entretenidísima, Mabuse, the guy is a genius of communication. Man, note that the conference knows it by heart and all jokes and dramatic effects have calculated the, but that even adds to the spectacle solvency. If you read the book you used to receive only very, very condensed the message and enjoy the ease of exposition author. How do you imagine? I was flipao, looks more like a Seville rociero an issuer professor bold historical theories.

    The book I read this holiday in Morocco, although I still have a handful of pages from the end. I said I'd do a review and suggest some ideas, mainly detect what you owe at Olagüe, but that will force me to read it again after a few years and already monumental step Guichot Al Andalus (Anthropological structure of an Islamic society in the West). Well, that needs much, long. The reward would be to enjoy the beautiful language of Don Ignacio.

    I intervened in the conversation to ask him to comment about the Mosque of Cordoba, aiming to find out exactly what worship was built, relating it to the theory that it was Olagüe for Arian worship, help greatly to the subject brightness, but he went out on a limb with the subject of frequent sharing of worship at the time and some curious anecdotes.

    What impresses me is that theories Olagüe, refined and completed by Ferrin, not only affect the historiography Spanish-Maghreb, but represent a revolution in studying the origins and expansion of Islam and especially the genesis of The Qur'an. This would be a salutary lesson in the current Islamic historiography, enconfrada no remedy for the sacredness of the text and raise the danger of origins and evolution of a text that is strictly the direct word of God for all believers.

  6. Manuel I understand the question you ask me is how water towers functioned?. The answer is not easy.

    I use the concept of water first splitter. It is more generic. A starter as the Royal Academy says is “Work intended to distribute through different channels gate the waters flowing in a channel”.

    A alcubilla can drive a single water pipe, enters a pipe and leaves one water pipe, or enter one or more pipes and out several pipes. The latter would be a primer Alcubilla.

    The hydraulic design requirements vary and is not fixed. What matters is the function that has to make the splitter. Among them as the word “Primer”, from water. Upon entering the water in the starter need to distribute according to need or have rights over the waters. I mean if I have 1 Straw (unit of measure, about 3,8 liters / minute if I remember correctly)the starter will have a different cauchil holes allow the output of that particular flow and other flow-straws as needed will be distributing.

    As I see that the issue can be complex, better write a post and I'll tell. Eso si, I need some time, because as I said before I'm a little busy.

    Regarding the Cordoba water towers, running an good collection of photos of existing and engravings which existed. I have described, photographed and drawn the mechanism of which is a masterpiece of hydraulic engineering Cordoba. If you send me tu email you a step sketches to you wonders. Mine is: lacolina711@gmail.com. Sorry I can not make public the latter reference.

  7. Well thank you very much for the explanations, although I only wanted to give you a pinpoint taking a subject you are an expert, that of the water towers that I have located in Morocco. But of course a lavish, expansion and promise, I loved explanation.

    My email is on my page, but I'll put it here:


    BTW could not you soften some language explanations? That straws, The 3'8 per minute, the Cauchiles orifice and flow straws… Luckily when you wrote we were no longer children's time.
    But anyway…

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